Tuesday, August 20, 2013

Whaling our Way into Petersburg


Monday, August 19, 2013 -- Petersburg, Alaska












Our 24nm run today to Petersburg, will bring closure to the second leg, 9 days, of our  three leg Alaska piece of our cruise .(The last 10 days or so will take to Wrangell, and on through Misty Fjords National  and on into Prince Rupert, BC).

It is another day in a black, gray, and white day until we dock in this interesting town almost totally supported by fishing.  It is known as Alaska’s ‘Little Norway’ located on Mitokof Island at the head of Wrangell Narrows, a 17nm navigation channel going south from here with interesting navigation and current challenges which we will undertake two days from now when we make our 40 plus nm run to Wrangell for another two days, also a smaller a fishing/logging town which will be the last town we will visit in Alaska.

Frederic Sound is known for being full of whales so like yesterday we are on the lookout.  Just when we conclude that they are not around today one surfaces and rolls over right next to the boat, not 30 feet away from us.He/She is bigger than we are!!
Nothing like this has ever happened to us.  For those of you who have helped us ‘whale watch’ in BC, we are normally gazing for far off spouts.  Needless to say, we are startled and it scared the ‘bejezzuz’ out of us.  We slowed and watched and this one continued to stay very close. I even backed up to get away thinking maybe we were provoking it.  We continued on after spending several minutes in awe and Ginny snapping pics as fast as she could with both of our cameras. Five minutes later we had the same experience with another one.  I was ‘chicken’ to stay as close as it seemed willing to get to us, but what a sight to behold!!!

We came on into town about an hour later.  Currents were running over 5 knots off the docks. Slack was over an hour away.  But then I saw a big back eddy and we came on in to our assigned slip without the difficulty I was fearing.  After describing the experience with local fishermen on the docks a few hours later, I learned ther was nothing to fear as were watching their feeding methods.

As soon as we were tied up the drizzle stopped, the sun came out, and we ate a bite and spent the rest of the afternoon scoping out this town of about 3,000.  It has its own charm and sits in its own beautiful setting with the mainland mountains and the huge Le Conte Glacier in its background, but lacks the sophistication of Sitka.  It is the Halibut capital of Alaska and the Pacific Ocean and the entire town is nothing but a huge fishing fleet and huge processing plants.  No ‘fine dinning’ anywhere, but lots of bars and pizza and informal places to eat, interspersed with a couple of good bakeries/coffee houses.

In closing, this may be the last posting for a couple of weeks- maybe when back in the Broughtons at Port McNeil, as there is little if any internet even here.  As of today we  have travelled 1,850 km since leaving Olympia on June 17, just two months ago. What a trip so far!




























Ginny and I have been happily married for 50 years , have 2 sons and 6 grandchildren. We have been avid boaters since the mid 1970's. We have sailed in various parts of the world making 'bareboat' charter trips in the Washington and Canadian San Juans and Gulf Islands, Maine,the British Virgins, South Pacific's Moorea and Tuamoto's and New Zealand. We owned and raced a J-24, Laser, and cruised a Newport 30 before buying a long range trawler in 2003 and cruising the waters of the Pacific Northwest and the 'Inside Passage' of British Columbia to SE Alaska for the last 10 years. After first owning a 2000 Selene 47, and 2002 Selene 50 (both named 'Ina Marie', we now, in the 'bell lap' of our boating days, own, operate and thoroughly enjoy 'Ginny C' , our 2007 Selene 42.

On Towards Petersburg/Sanborn Canal and Portage Bay

Ginny and I have been happily married for 50 years , have 2 sons and 6 grandchildren. We have been avid boaters since the mid 1970's. We have sailed in various parts of the world making 'bareboat' charter trips in the Washington and Canadian San Juans and Gulf Islands, Maine,the British Virgins, South Pacific's Moorea and Tuamoto's and New Zealand. We owned and raced a J-24, Laser, and cruised a Newport 30 before buying a long range trawler in 2003 and cruising the waters of the Pacific Northwest and the 'Inside Passage' of British Columbia to SE Alaska for the last 10 years. After first owning a 2000 Selene 47, and 2002 Selene 50 (both named 'Ina Marie', we now, in the 'bell lap' of our boating days, own, operate and thoroughly enjoy 'Ginny C' , our 2007 Selene 42.



Saturday, July 17,2013; Sanborn Cove


To see our locations click on this text

We left  our Holkam Bay anchorage at the head of Tracy Arm at 7:45am for our 41 mile run to Sanborn Cove, a beautiful cove in Port Houghton Bay, infrequently visited by cruising boats because it is a bit out of the way in the general routes between Juneau and Petersburg and is not well charted.  It is overcast and rain is now expected for the next several days.  However, this AM the ceiling is high and broken as we depart revealing the majesty of SE Alaska’s rugged mountains and glaciers.  As we depart we hear and see two cruise ships [Carnival and Seven Seas] entering and leaving Tracy Arm Bar.  How lucky could we be to have had only two small excursion charter boats with us on our day here. We cross the bar, head south and drop the anchor and a crab trap in Sanborn by 1:25 pm after having slowed a bit off Hobart Bay to watch two whales for a bit. 

It is raining but this cove needs to be explored.  So, after enjoying a bowl of hot soup, it is on with the rain gear and off in the Kayaks for the next two and 1/2 hours paddling up and back down the riverbed through the vast marshes at the head of the cove hoping to see wildlife.  Eagles are everywhere but we are too early for the bears or moose to be out feeding in spite of the literally thousands of salmon schooled in the shallow pools as we kayak up over two miles of the river until we start to ground our Kayaks as the water continues to shallow out with the end of an outgoing tide.  The water literally churns all around us as the large groups of salmon scatter by reason of our presence moving through.

Back to the boat to dry out, warm up with hot showers, and an early dinner and off to bed tired ‘the right way’ from our kayak adventure.

Sunday, July 18, 2013 Portage Bay, Kupreanof Island.



The rains have finally arrived and the temperatures are cooling but the seas are not stormy. The highlight of the day as we cruised our 33.4nm run out Stephens Passage, around Cape Fanshaw and into south/east down Frederick Sound was spotting 14 different humpback whales.  They seemed to be everywhere we looked for about 1.5 hours of our 4.5 hour trip.  The ceilings are high between the rain squalls closing in to reduce visibility to less than a mile for short periods of time.  When it rains here it rains steady and hard but them breaks to more gray, black and white, but still wondrous views.  It is like we are cruising in a world without color, but a world that Ansel Adams would lust for!!!!

Portage Bay is huge shallow and safe offering good shallow anchorage.  We arrive about 1:30. drop a crab trap and set, or think we set well, in about 30 feet.  It is a day to cozy up with a good book. Stiff muscles from our long Kayaking from yesterday and the passing rain squalls tell us it is booking time and relaxation for our type ‘A’ nature.  

Ginny prepares the perfect comfort food dinner for the day, a yummy meatloaf, mashed potatoes, and roasted peppers,onions, and mushrooms complimented with some good red wine.  I also enjoyed my third 15/15,000 scotch.  Yes, we still have, 3 days later, some more ice berg chunks from Tracy Arm not yet melted away.

After dinner I glance at my anchor mark/waypoint I set when we dropped the hook and was amazed to see that we were dragging our anchor with each squall that came through.  And, our crab trap seemed to have disappeared.  After considering it gone I finally spot it with the binoculars, far from where we set it.  It is staring to get dark. So it is up with the anchor, covered in kelp, and off to pull the trap, now in some strong incoming tidal current.  When I finally hook the floats with the boat hook it is so heavy I can hardly pull in up even tho it it is only 45 feet down. No crabs in it but 5 humongous star fish encase it as I struggle to pull it onto the swim step. 




Back to our anchorage area, it takes us two trys to get a good set dragging the anchor acrros kelp beds until it finally finds the mud underneath.

It is now 8:50 and time to get back to our books before dozing off to a good nights sleep, confident that we will drag no more as the squalls pass thru.






























Tracy Arm, a Spiritual Experience Navigating thru Ice Bergs

Ginny and I have been happily married for 50 years , have 2 sons and 6 grandchildren. We have been avid boaters since the mid 1970's. We have sailed in various parts of the world making 'bareboat' charter trips in the Washington and Canadian San Juans and Gulf Islands, Maine,the British Virgins, South Pacific's Moorea and Tuamoto's and New Zealand. We owned and raced a J-24, Laser, and cruised a Newport 30 before buying a long range trawler in 2003 and cruising the waters of the Pacific Northwest and the 'Inside Passage' of British Columbia to SE Alaska for the last 10 years. After first owning a 2000 Selene 47, and 2002 Selene 50 (both named 'Ina Marie', we now, in the 'bell lap' of our boating days, own, operate and thoroughly enjoy 'Ginny C' , our 2007 Selene 42.




Friday, August 16, 2013-- a ‘spiritual experience’ is the only way to describe it!!!!!-- the Sawyer Glaciers in Tracy Arm.




To see our locations click on this text

I awake at 5:30 in great concern for fog and having to cancel or postpone our day at the glaciers. Instead i just see high overcast clouds but mostly a clear ceiling of the shear 5-6000 ft sheer rock cliffs going straight up, almost vertically out of water over 1,000 feet deep along its edges as we pull anchor and head up this absolutely awesome,magnificent fjord.  Each bend brings more and larger ice bergs plus first tens, then hundreds, then 1000,s of small ones all large enough to spoil your day. 

As we get closer these dangerous ones are interspersed with 10‘s of thousands’s small ‘bergies’ which we will have to plow thru very slowly as even these can do damage if hit with any inertia. But the wind is calm so they are not bunched up and blocking us from our goal of getting to the face of the glaciers.  Some bergs are snow white and blue and thus easy to spot.  Others are chunks as clear as glass and thus very difficult to spot.

Fortunately, we meet up with a small charter yacht ‘Catalyst’ out of Friday Harbor, in the Washington San Juans, with its 12 guests picked up in Juneau. She ran at our speed and as we headed into North Glacier Arm and as the bergs got thicker we could pretty much follow her.  The last 1/2 mile in North Arm and 1.5 miles in South Arm was pretty much negotiated at dead slow speed then and now contacting only the smallest bergies no more than 12 to 15 inch chunks of glass clear ice.

Words cannot adequately describe the beauty of this place or the experience of being able to get within 1/2 mile from the face of North Glacier and about 1/4 mile from the face of South.  It would have been totally unsafe to make any attempt to get closer.  Both were calving quite actively,  Chunks larger than our boat would break and fall, sometimes 100‘s of feet into the water.  We cut the motor and drifted, listened and watched, for about 45 minutes at each head. The sound that followed the crash was as loud as any thunder I have ever heard.  We watched one whole chunk of the blue ice wall fall at North probably larger than a 5 story office building.  It broke loose several hundred feet up and its splash literally looked like an explosion.  It set off a series of huge five foot waves which reached us a 1/2 mile away, about what seemed about 4 minutes later, bobbing the boat like it was a piece of cork.

Because of the receding over the years, our navigation chart showed us high and dry on land as we sat and watched in over 4 hundred feet of water.  The immensity of the cliffs and sheer mountain walls rising straight up 1,000’s of feet and the immensity of the wall of ice on the faces of each glacier, over came us emotionally as we sat and contemplated in terms of scope and time, how this has been going on for 10’s of thousands of years compared to our physical size and time we will be be part of this planet.  Yes a ‘spiritual’ or near ‘religious  experience ‘ is the only way we can describe it.

Our only disappointment was that, among those of you have cruised with us as ‘crew’ and gained some degree of appreciation and understanding for why we have loved doing this so much, neither you nor family were here to share this never to be forgotten day with us.  

Enough said, enough trying to describe the scenery and tge experience of cruising the ice fields--- ENJOY the pictures.!!!!!  We navigated it safely, gathered some of the ancient ice and it is now time to celebrate!!  I am off to pour and enjoy my 15/15 cocktail --- 15 year old scotch poured over a chunk of 15,000 year old ice!!!  [Ginny will most likely do likewise, altho it most likely will not be enjoyed with scotch].  To end a perfect day we were greeted with a squall and incredible rainbow framing these majestic glaciated mountains surrounding our anchorage.  We sat, sipped, and meditated, for almost two hours completely mesmerized reflecting back on this incredible day and the majesty of all of it!!!









Enjoy this short Video of Calving at North Sawyer Glacier



Note the 3 foot wave / roll created by this calving event!!




























Enjoying the End of an almost perfect day 
after navigating thru huge ice fields to see these magnificent glaciers.
Watch this short video for a taste of the experience

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