Saturday, August 10, 2013

Leaving Craig for the beautiful El Capitan Passage and its ancient Caves


Ginny and I have been happily married for 50 years , have 2 sons and 6 grandchildren. We have been avid boaters since the mid 1970's. We have sailed in various parts of the world making 'bareboat' charter trips in the Washington and Canadian San Juans and Gulf Islands, Maine,the British Virgins, South Pacific's Moorea and Tuamoto's and New Zealand. We owned and raced a J-24, Laser, and cruised a Newport 30 before buying a long range trawler in 2003 and cruising the waters of the Pacific Northwest and the 'Inside Passage' of British Columbia to SE Alaska for the last 10 years. After first owning a 2000 Selene 47, and 2002 Selene 50 (both named 'Ina Marie', we now, in the 'bell lap' of our boating days, own, operate and thoroughly enjoy 'Ginny C' , our 2007 Selene 42.





Thursday, August 1, 2013, Craig to Sarker Cove    To see our locations click on this text


Weather continues to be beautiful as we leave Craig this morning on our 43km cruise to Sarker Cove in anticipation of our trip through El Capitan Passage and Narrows. It is hard to believe that it has been  a week since we left Ketchikan.

Our early morning departure brings us into fog after we exit San Cristobal passage.  For about 1.5 to 2 hours we run in fog on Radar with visibility ranging from 1.5 to less than 1/4 mile visibility.  Very few targets encountered except for a few fishing boats. 
The fog totally burned off about 3 miles before entering Karheen Narrows and entering the 1.5 miles of rock piles crossing Tuxekan Bay  and heading up Tuxekan  Passage on into  Sarker Cove for the night.  This beautiful cove was a wonderful place to stay. 

Luxury class El Capitan fishing lodge sits midway in and is a beautiful spot. 
Fish are literally swarming in the bay jumping everywhere.  Huge schools are congregating at the mouth of the river for spawning.  There has been no rain anywhere near here for weeks so the spawning streams every where are almost running dry giving no room for fish movement. As we take a dingy and kayak run up to the river entrance fish are jumping so close to us that they almost splash us. We can see them in swarms everywhere but they won’t hit our lures.
As we return to Ginny C we realize the water is quite warm.  It reads s 73.8 on my fishfinder. This is totally unbelievable!!---- Warmer than Desolation Sound’s Prideaux Haven Cove.  Needles to say, Dave D and I took a swim and bathed.  Also the water here is brackish with a big fresh water layer on top of the salt water.  As soon as we dive in we discover that the 73+ water is a layer only about three feet down---feet freezing cold but toasty warm on the surface layer.  But after lathering up we did not even need a fresh water rinse because this warm top layer was almost totally freshwater 

Our Whale citing for the day has been four , one as we left Craig and three after we came through Tuxekan Narrows.

August 2, and August 3, 2013 El Capitan Passage and El Capitan Caves

Friday, August 2, 2013                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       
It is a  short 12,8 km run north and then west into beautiful EL Capitan Passage.  We leave at 7:45 and arrive at the USFS cove and dock about 9:45 am.  It is another clear day.  We thought we would be anchoring off the dock and taking the tender in, but as we approach a young USFS employee on the dock tells us there is over 20 feet at the dock and we are welcome to tie up.  Ginny makes a great pancake brunch for us and Dan who it turns out will be our guide for our noon tour of El Capitan Cave.  I do Rocky Pass Chart work until noon and we meet Dan and Nichol, our guides  for the tour at Noon.  This huge cave requires us to go up 370 steps to reach its entrance. It is up and up through beautiful second growth and virgin forest.
Our tour lasts 2 hours and we go 600 feet into the cave during the tour.  The temp inside is 40 so we bundle up.  Our route is horizontal for the most part.  The cave has several miles and several levels of passages.  When we return to the boat, the wind is cool and brisk so upon request we are allowed to stay on the dock overnight.  We had planned to head off another three km down EC passage to ‘Dry Pass Anchorage’ for the night.
The rest of the afternoon is spent relaxing and reading, gunkholing on the beach, and pulling and organizing charts for the next several days.



Saturday, August 3, 2013    To see our locations click on this text

 It is hard to believe that it has been over a week since we left Ketchikan. 

Our cruise plan for the day is to traverse the rest of El Capitan Passage into Shankan Passage and Bay and then on out into Sumner Straight and into Hole in the Wall Cove for the night, before tackling 24 miles of ‘Rocky Pass’ and Keku Straight the next two days.  The final seven to eight miles of El Cap. are narrow and beyond spectacular!!!  We wished we had stayed in ‘Dry Pass’ as planned, about 3 km further in.

Fish continue to jump all around us.  It is a relatively short 19nm day with a planned arrival at Hole in the Wall cove at noon so we slow down and fish for an hour plus but have no success. This is frustrating as literally hundreds of fish are jumping all around us. A huge whale greets us as we exit Shakan Passage.

Hole in the Wall looks like the perfect all weather anchorage up here near the North west end of Prince of Wales Island but we soon discover that this is not where we want to settle in for the night.  As we enter its extremely narrow slot about 300 yards long and prepare to anchor we cannot find a proper depth which is not too close to shore for my comfort and the bottom is very soft mud thru which we might drag if  SW wind picks up through the entrance. 

So, we go to plan B and exit heading to either Port Protection and Wooden Wheel Cove or Port Baker, a small community at the north end of Prince Of Wales Island.  After squeezing in to the local Store/Processing Plant dock in Port Protection we see that the state float ‘next door’ is wide open on one side so we tie up there, have lunch, and drop Dave and Steph off at the store/process plant dock to visit with the local fisherman while we do some bottom fishing for a couple of hours.  Fishing boats are coming in to drop off their catches at the plant.  It is interesting to watch the action.  Our fishing effort produces only two small rock fish which will be used for bait.






































Wednesday, July 31, 2013

Ketchikan to Craig : Never in 1,000 Years!!!


Ginny and I have been happily married for 50 years , have 2 sons and 6 grandchildren. We have been avid boaters since the mid 1970's. We have sailed in various parts of the world making 'bareboat' charter trips in the Washington and Canadian San Juans and Gulf Islands, Maine,the British Virgins, South Pacific's Moorea and Tuamoto's and New Zealand. We owned and raced a J-24, Laser, and cruised a Newport 30 before buying a long range trawler in 2003 and cruising the waters of the Pacific Northwest and the 'Inside Passage' of British Columbia to SE Alaska for the last 10 years. After first owning a 2000 Selene 47, and 2002 Selene 50 (both named 'Ina Marie', we now, in the 'bell lap' of our boating days, own, operate and thoroughly enjoy 'Ginny C' , our 2007 Selene 42.



JULY 27 TO August 1: KETCHIKAN to CRAIG, ‘Never in a Thousand Years’

For the entire next week weather is predicted clear with temps in hi 70's and low 80's. Never in 1,000 years would I have expected this!!!!!





Tuesday, July 23 to Friday, July 26, 2013, caching up in Ketchikan
 Our guests for the next 12 days, Dave and Stephanie D’Alessandro from Ft. Lauderdale arrive on Friday from Seattle.  In hindsight we are glad to have had the unanticipated 3 extra days here to get caught up on laundry,fuel, provisioning and routine maintenance before their arrival. 

Tuesday it rained hard all day.  We went into town and had lunch on Tuesday watching 6,000 passengers off 3 huge cruise ships mill around and thru all the tourist trap gift shops along the waterfront.  It reminded us of St Thomas and St Martin on our April Cruise....same exact vendors/stores with same names, many supposedly owned by the Cruise ship lines.  Wednesday and Thursday are spent on the above stated chores. Our guests arrive midday Friday missing one bag and pretty well jet lagged so we have lunch, do the safety and systems orientation and relax while I updated this blog. The missing bag arrives about 5 pm off the next flight in from Seattle.  We went out to dinner at the Bar Harbor Grill and then off to an early bed time. Weather is clear and predicted to stay that way for next several days
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        
Saturday, July 27, 2013
Conditions are right  for rounding Cape Chacon on Sunday, one of three places we will face the open ocean on this extended trip up the inside passage. So we are up and out of Ketchikan by mid morning for our 35km run into Gardner Bay on the SE side of Prince of Wales Island, just 8km from rounding the cape. We arrive mid afternoon and share this pretty cove with 5 other big Purse Seiners. The weather is clearing up tremendously and it is actually getting warm-no hot-High 70’s. Just as we are arriving at the entrance to the bay, we spot a huge Humpback Whale.  We slow down and watch him for a bit.  He roles twice within 70 yards of the boat before he dives and is gone.  What a way to end our first day out of Ketchikan!!!

 Sunday, July 28th, 2013
To see our locations click on this text
We are up and off the anchor at 5:15 to make our rounding of Cape Chacon.  We do not want to go when wind direction is against tide direction. Plus winds usually calm down or die overnight, seas calm and then both build back up mid to late afternoon.  There is not a cloud in the sky and we are in SE Alaska the largest rain forest area in the US if not on earth. As we round the Cape and transit about 15 miles of Dixon Entrance seas build to a long 5 foot swell with no wind chop on top of them which makes the trip very easy. We are in these seas for only about 1.5 hours and we head north out of the swell into Eureka passage for a smooth trip the balance of our 45plus km day as we cruise into Kassa Inlet for the night. We play along with another whale for about 45 minutes just south of Kassa Narrows This is a beautiful big safe bay and we share it with only one other boat.  We drop the Tender and Dave and I set a prawn trap a mile away in a 280 foot hole we spotted on our charts on the way in.  Ginny and Steph hit the Kayaks.  Salmon are jumping all around us --have been all day--so we troll back to the boat.  Dave has the rod and hooks a nice small yellow eye, but no Salmon.  It is 80 degrees and nasty deer flies come and go.  Dave and i take a quick dip in the chilly 63 degree water and take an outside shower,before settling down to a great dinner and quiet evening.  We play a few hands of Pitch and it is off to bed.
We are up early heading out at 6am to pull the prawn trap and proceed on to Hydaburg, an Alaska Native village with a famous totem park and carving facility and then heading on to Port Refugio Bay for the night.  It is another jackpot day, no clouds ,temp in high 70’s, low 80’s.  The prawn traps yield 88 huge prawns and we arrive in Hydaburg to visit with the carvers and take some pictures of original and restored totems. The salmon  are swarming at the mouth of a small stream in the village.  we watch the village boys snag salmon out of the stream on our way to visit the carvers.
We just missed a totem raising by two days.  There was a huge 3 tribe celebration and Potlatch feast of Salmon and deer and other native foods.  Darn!!  We leave Hydaburg in time to reach Tlevak Narrows at slack water tide change in order to make a safe transit through this tricky area. As we exit Tlevak we spot 4 more whales.



Tuesday, July 30th, 2013

To see our locations click on this text

This is a short 14 mile day from Port Refugio on into Craig for a day layover.  Port refugio is a bomb proof anchorage about 3 miles from Waterfall Lodge, a Mercedes grade fishing resort set up in a restored fishing cannery.  Gorgeous spot!! Willamette used to entertain customers here in the good old days. We pull our first successful crab catch- 3 keepers- just fair size from this anchorage.  Black Bears are usually on the beach meadows here but we do not see any.  We wait for some early morning fog to burn off to another glorious cloudless day, exit the cove and slow down to salmon fish for an hour at Port  Estrella point.  We pick up a nice ‘pink’ or ‘humpy’ salmon in about 10 minutes but nothing after that.  The lodge guides and commercial seiners are here in droves, so we get one of the last spots on the docks in Craig’s south harbor.  Dave cleans the fish and I cook the crab while Ginny, Steph, and Dave scout this interesting fishing village.  We cap the day off with an incredible dinner at Stevens Point Fishing Lodge, just a 10 minute walk from our slip.

Wednesday, July 31, 2013

To see our locations click on this text

Today, will be spent like most layovers, enjoying Craig, buying fresh produce, etc.  Showers for all as there is good water here to top up our tanks before we leave.  As I write this I am sitting at Pac Air’s float plane docks waiting for its 1pm flight from Ketchikan.  With the help of a local outboard dealor here I have arrange for a new out board start key to be flown in from Ketchikan.  We havea spare, but we lost one two days ago and we are ‘up the creek’ if we lose the spare, so we arranged for this ‘air freight’ in about 10 minutes.  It is amazing how these people up here are so helpful and ‘can do’, and self sufficient.  No Honda dealer here, so its competitor, Yamaha dealer, spent his time and effort to help me get this done even tho he knew there was not a dime in it for him and he would never see me again.  Makes me grimace when I think of the ‘what are you going to do for me’ attitude of so much of our country today.  As soon as the flight comes in I will be off to the library to hopefully get this posted.
Next update will be in Sitka about 10 days away if all goes OK.

































          









Next update will be in Sitka about 10 days away if all goes OK.